La Folie Douce Val d'Isere

The most famous après-ski in the Alps sits above La Daille. Here's how to do it well, and how to get down afterwards.

La Daille at the entrance to Val d'Isère in March snow

What it's like

La Folie Douce is a must, and our top tip for the whole area. There's always a great atmosphere and the food is good. It also has surprisingly a lot of seating space, including a whole basement floor, so it's worth going even if the terrace looks packed.

By mid-afternoon the terrace becomes a party, with DJs, cabaret and dancing, and yes, people do drink champagne out of a ski boot. It suits groups best, but it's a fun stop for anyone.

Where it is and how to get there

It's on the Bellevarde side, at the top of the La Daille gondola above La Daille. It's also at the bottom of La Verte, a long, wide green, so every skier can reach it. From Tignes, cross back over on the Tovière lifts and ski La Verte down.

Not skiing? Ride the La Daille gondola up with a pedestrian pass. Check the latest pass and shuttle details at the lift office.

La Cucùcina and lunch

Inside is La Cucùcina, a theatrical Italian room in Renaissance style with a 4 m horse sculpture, a big arched window and a cabaret and aerial show during lunch. The menu is contemporary Italian; we'd order the lobster fregola risotto. Book ahead.

La Fruitière, also in the building, is the more classic mountain lunch. If you'd rather keep the party for later, lunch at La Peau de Vache on La Face and come to La Folie Douce for the afternoon.

Getting home afterwards

Ride the La Daille gondola down rather than skiing tired. From La Daille, the free bus takes you to Val d'Isère centre, where Cocorico at the foot of Solaise keeps the après going with live music and DJs.

If you ski down, Diebold, the blue to La Daille, is the easy way but gets very busy late in the day. Staying in Tignes? Remember you have to get back over the ridge: it's 1 or 2 lifts, so leave enough time before the lifts close, and expect Johan Clarey into Le Lac to be carnage in the late afternoon.

More après in Val d'Isere

Cocorico is the classic straight-off-the-slopes bar in the village, more grounded and intimate than the big mountain venues. Later on, La Baraque has live music and oysters and is popular with locals. Our area guide lists our favourite restaurants on the mountain and in the village.

Our opinions come from our own trips. Local tips come from the Ski Muse team and our community. Lift and piste names follow the official piste map; conditions change, so check on the day.

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